Which gentle exfoliation should you choose for your face? For most skin types, the best gentle exfoliation is chemical, not mechanical: acids or enzymes that loosen dead cells without scrubbing. AHAs (such as glycolic or lactic acid) smooth skin texture and revive radiance, BHA (salicylic acid) decongests the pores of oily skin, and PHAs (gluconolactone) are the best tolerated by sensitive skin. The Korean method favours low concentrations used consistently, two to three times a week, followed by a soothing product and SPF every morning.
Gentle exfoliation: what is it really for?
Your skin renews itself constantly: roughly every 28 days, new cells rise to the surface and the old ones need to shed. When this process slows down (age, pollution, dehydrated skin, excess sebum), dead cells build up. The result:
- a dull complexion and uneven skin texture;
- clogged pores and blackheads;
- skincare that absorbs less effectively;
- rough patches, especially on the nose, chin and forehead.
Gentle exfoliation helps your skin do this job without damaging it. The key word is "gentle": in K-beauty, a small, regular step is preferred over a harsh scrub once a month.
AHA, BHA, PHA: the differences explained
AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids)
Definition: water-soluble acids derived from fruit, milk or sugar cane (glycolic, lactic, mandelic). They work on the surface by dissolving the "glue" between dead cells.
- Ideal for: dull complexion, uneven texture, normal to dry skin, first fine lines.
- Good to know: lactic acid is gentler than glycolic acid and hydrates at the same time.
BHA (beta hydroxy acid)
Definition: mainly salicylic acid. It is oil-soluble, so it penetrates the pore to dissolve sebum.
- Ideal for: oily or combination skin, blackheads, breakouts, visible pores.
- Good to know: it also has a calming effect on redness linked to spots.
PHAs (polyhydroxy acids)
Definition: large-molecule acids (gluconolactone, lactobionic acid) that penetrate slowly and stay on the surface.
- Ideal for: sensitive or reactive skin, or acid beginners.
- Good to know: they attract water and boost hydration while exfoliating.
What about enzymes?
Enzymes (protease, papain, bromelain) "nibble away" at the proteins in dead cells. They are very gentle and perfect as part of a daily toner or cleanser.
Which exfoliation for your skin type
- Oily or blemish-prone skin: a daily BHA cleanser such as the COSRX Salicylic Acid Daily Gentle Cleanser, with 0.5% salicylic acid, tea tree and willow water. Massage into the T-zone for 30 to 60 seconds, then rinse.
- Combination skin: BHA on the T-zone, plus a multi-acid mask once a week. The Medicube Zero Pore Blackhead Mud Mask combines 5 clays with an AHA, BHA and PHA trio; 3 minutes is enough.
- Sensitive or dehydrated skin: go for PHAs or enzymes. The Round Lab 1025 Dokdo Toner contains a gentle exfoliating protease and deep sea water: swept on with a cotton pad, it refines skin texture while hydrating. To build a suitable routine, also read our guide to Korean skincare for sensitive skin.
- Normal to dry skin, dull complexion: a gentle AHA (lactic acid) once or twice a week in the evening, followed by a nourishing cream.
How to fit exfoliation into your Korean routine
The right order
- Double cleanse (oil, then a gentle cleanser or a BHA cleanser).
- Exfoliating toner or acid treatment, on dry skin.
- Hydrating or soothing serum.
- Barrier cream, such as the SKIN1004 Centella Cream, a gel cream with centella and panthenol that calms the skin after acids.
- In the morning: SPF 50 is a must, as acids make skin more sensitive to UV.
The right frequency
- Beginner: twice a week, in the evening.
- Experienced skin: 3 to 4 times a week, or even daily for a low-strength BHA cleanser.
- Sensitive skin: once or twice a week with PHAs or enzymes.
Combinations to avoid
- Don't layer AHA, BHA and retinol on the same night.
- Avoid acids right before facial hair removal or after sunburn.
- Don't combine a grainy scrub and an acid in the same routine.
Signs you're over-exfoliating
Over-exfoliation is the most common mistake. Stop acids for one to two weeks if you notice:
- tightness or stinging when you apply your moisturiser;
- skin that looks shiny but "plastic-like";
- redness, small dry patches or new breakouts;
- unusual sensitivity to the sun or to water.
During this break, keep a minimal routine: gentle cleanser, soothing serum, centella cream and SPF. If pores remain your main concern, our article on enlarged pores details the right routine.
Where to buy
Yasmine Beauty, independent perfumery and beauty store in Esch-sur-Alzette (Luxembourg). Free delivery from €49.90 to 18 EU countries, in 2 to 4 working days. Below €49.90: €8 in Luxembourg, €11.19 in other countries. Pay in 3 or 4 interest-free instalments. Returns within 14 days. 100% authentic products.
FAQ: gentle exfoliation
What is the difference between AHA, BHA and PHA?
AHAs work on the surface for radiance and texture, BHA penetrates pores to decongest them, and PHAs exfoliate very gently while hydrating, which suits sensitive skin.
How many times a week should you exfoliate your face?
Twice a week to start, then up to three or four times if your skin tolerates it. A low-strength BHA cleanser can be used daily.
Can you exfoliate sensitive skin?
Yes, with PHAs or enzymes, once or twice a week, always followed by a soothing cream. Avoid grainy scrubs.
Should you exfoliate in the morning or evening?
Preferably in the evening, as acids increase sun sensitivity. The next morning, always apply SPF.
Can you use acids with retinol?
Yes, but not on the same night. Alternate acid nights and retinol nights, and keep at least one rest night a week.